Day two was about finding a rhythm. The Rhine Gorge — sometimes called the "Swiss Grand Canyon" — opened up somewhere south of Chur, and nothing could have prepared me for the scale of it. Rocky walls dropping hundreds of metres, dense forest clinging to the slopes, and a turquoise river threading through the valley far below. I stopped at a viewpoint and just stared for a while.
The riding itself was a long, steady push — not brutal, but consistent. Switzerland's road infrastructure is almost unfairly good for cycling: smooth tarmac, clear signage, and mountain air cool enough to make the effort feel manageable even under a blazing June sky.
The highlight of the day came not from the landscape but from a retiree near Chur. We got talking, and he invited me to pitch my tent in his garden for the night. Before I left the next morning, he pressed some cash into my hand — for camping fees ahead, he said. I hadn't asked. He just did it. Some moments on a long journey stay with you permanently. This was one of them.
- Date June 23, 2025
- Route Rhine Valley → Chur
- Highlight Rhine Gorge viewpoint
- Overnight Retiree's garden · Chur area
